Engineering

CAD Tolerances for 3D Printing: A Practical Guide

8 min read · Intermediate

One of the most frustrating experiences in 3D printing is designing a part, printing it, and finding the holes are too small for the bolt, the pin doesn't fit the socket, or the lid won't close. This is a tolerance problem. Here's how to design around it.

Why FDM Has Dimensional Error

FDM printers aren't perfectly accurate. Typical dimensional accuracy for a well-tuned consumer printer is ±0.1–0.2mm per axis. Holes tend to print smaller than designed (due to material expanding as it's laid down). External dimensions tend to be close to nominal, sometimes slightly larger.

Fit Types and Recommended Tolerances

Press Fit (tight: requires force to assemble)

Use when parts should not come apart without tools. For a pin into a hole:

Transition Fit (snug: easy assembly, stays put)

Clearance Fit (loose: moves freely)

For axles, sliding parts, or ease of assembly:

Standard Hardware (bolts, screws, inserts)

Writing Tolerances Into Your Prompt

Be explicit when you need a clearance hole vs a tight hole:

"A 60×40×5mm plate with four M3 clearance holes (3.4mm diameter) in the corners, 8mm from each edge."
"A 20mm diameter socket, 15mm deep, with 0.3mm clearance: it should accept a 20mm pin that slides freely."

Test Prints

Always print a small test piece before committing to the full part when fit matters. A simple 20×20mm block with a few different hole sizes lets you dial in the correct tolerance for your specific printer, filament, and print settings.

Layer Height and Horizontal Accuracy

Horizontal (XY) accuracy is generally better than vertical (Z) accuracy in FDM. If you have critical mating features, try to orient parts so the fit is along the XY plane rather than the Z axis.

Related: Designing Snap-Fit Joints for 3D Printing